Lanthwaite Woods, near Crummock Water

Good Photography Locations in the Lake District, Cumbria

Lanthwaite Woods by Mark Elliott Photography

Lanthwaite Woods, near Crummock Water in the Lake District is an interesting place to photograph at any time of the year.

The River Cocker, which flows out of Crummock Water courses through the woodland before winding its way down Lorton Vale towards the town of Cockermouth, where it joins the River Derwent. Cockermouth is named after the meeting of these two rivers.

The woods are a haven for wildlife, including roe deer, red squirrels and a wide variety of birds. Colourful mushrooms are abundant in late summer/autumn.

Location Info:

Lanthwaite Woods are located approximately 6.5 miles/10.4 kilometers south of Cockermouth, just off the B5289. A pay and display car park is located next to Scalehill Bridge. Grid Ref: NY 149 215.

Posted in Lake District, photo locations Tagged , , , , |

Self Portrait from Inside My Fridge

Look for a Different Point of View

Self Portrait from Inside Fridge

When taking photographs, it’s always a good idea to look for a unique point of view.

I woke up last night with an idea to put my camera inside my fridge and take a photograph of me peering inside. It seemed like a fun thing to try, a bit of creativity.

I spent five minutes getting this shot, using a 24mm lens on my full frame camera. A wider lens would have probably been even more effective, but that’s the widest lens I have. Due to the low light levels, even at my widest aperture, the required shutter speed was very slow at low ISOs and so to avoid subject movement, I used an ISO of 2500. This got me 1/13 second shutter speed, just enough to make sure that I stayed sharp. I reached into the fridge, focused the shot and set the camera’s self-timer to ten seconds. I took three or four shots and this was the most effective.

I didn’t like the thought of keeping my camera in my fridge for any longer and so gave up my little creative experiment.

I wonder what I’ll wake up thinking about tonight?

Posted in creative photography, odd, people photography, perspective, techniques Tagged , , , , , |

Travel Photography: Take Better Holiday Photos

Travel Photography: How to Take Better Holiday Photos and Avoid Picture Problems.

Snow Shoeing in the Pyrenees

Snow Shoeing in the Pyrenees

Taking Photos on Holiday

 

We all want to take great photos whilst on holiday. They serve as a reminder of the wonderful time that we had and are a way to share our experience with others.

 

However, we are sometimes disappointed with the way our holiday photos turn out – images are blurred, out of focus or are just plain boring. But what can we do about it?

 

Here are twelve tips to make you a happy snapper, get you taking better holiday photos and avoid some common picture problems.


Taking Better Holiday Photos – Twelve Tips

 

1) Learn to use some of your camera’s most useful ‘holiday settings’ before you go. Know how to turn on the flash, increase your ISO and macro settings and use self-timer. It beats fumbling with your camera and missing great photo opportunities.

 

2) Take your camera everywhere and don’t weigh yourself down with cumbersome equipment. Travel light. A small, light-weight tripod or ‘Gorrillapod’ is a useful accessory, ideal for low light conditions/night shots/slow shutter speeds.

 

3) Avoid underexposing faces. When people pose in front of bright backgrounds (sand, snow, sunsets or sea) they can become silhouetted. This might can an interesting photo, but if you’d like to recognise them, use flash to illuminate them.

 

4) Avoid blurry night and low-light shots. At night and in low light conditions, your camera has to keep open its shutter to gather enough light to expose your images. If anything or anyone moves whilst the camera shutter remains open the image will be blurred. Keep your camera steady by using a tripod. If you don’t have a tripod, hold your camera as steady as possible and use high ISO setting. If people are posing in the frame – ask them to keep very still, and use flash.

 

5) Memory cards. Don’t keep ‘all your eggs in one basket’. Rather than loading all your images onto one large capacity memory card – use several smaller capacity cards in case you loose your card or it is faulty.

 

6) Fully charge your camera batteries before you go and remember to take your battery charger with you (with a suitable adapter for the local electricity supply).

 

7) Think about composition. Make your images look more interesting. Take pictures from different angles and points of view. Instead of taking all your pictures at head height, get up high or down low. Use ‘leading lines’ – lines which draw the viewer into the picture and the ‘rule of thirds’ – which places your subject one third of the way (horizontally or vertically) into the frame, rather than dead centre,

 

8) For more interesting people pictures. Use the rule of thirds for people, too.  Don’t place people dead centre in the frame – move them to one side. To keep them in sharp focus, point your camera at them, half-press your shutter (you should hear the auto focusing bleep). Keeping your shutter half-pressed, you can now recompose your picture and press the shutter fully to take the shot.

 

9) To find good locations for taking photos, look at local postcards and buy a good guide book.

 

10) Shoot your pictures in the morning and evening for the best light conditions. Light during this time looks warmer and makes your images more attractive.

 

11) Portraits of locals can make great images. Before taking close-ups of local people, ask permission. If they say no, respect their wishes.

 

12) Make a more interesting photographic record of your trip by photographing the small details. Take close up and macro shots of unusual features, local food and flowers.


 

 

I hope that these tips will help you take better holiday photos and avoid picture problems.

 

Have a great time!

Posted in techniques, travel photography, travel photos, vacation photography tips Tagged , , , |

Sharpening your Photos using Unsharp Mask

Sharpening your Photos using Unsharp Mask


Introduction

This is a basic introduction to sharpening your photographs in Photoshop using Unsharp Mask, which despite its unlikely sounding name, is the sharpening tool of choice for most photographers.


When to Sharpen your Photos

Whether to sharpen your photographs, and by how much depends on whether your shoot your photographs as JPEGs or RAW format.

JPEGs

JPEGs have already been sharpened, colour saturated and had contrast adjustments made by your camera, based on the camera’s internal settings. In producing a JPEG, your camera does much of the photo editing work and then throws away what it regards as unnecessary data in order to compress the file size and present you with your photograph.

Sharpening JPEGs further in Photoshop is mostly unnecessary and can result in over-sharpened images (see How to Sharpen your Photos

below). In some cases, additional sharpening in Photoshop might be possible providing it is done on a very limited basis and with care.

RAW

When your camera is set to capture images in RAW format, your camera produces files (photo files) that are not manipulated by your camera. It captures all the data from the scene and then hands the image over to you to make adjustments to sharpness, colour saturation, contrast and a range of other variables. Because data is captured in its RAW state and is uncompressed, file sizes are much larger than JPEG files.

With RAW files you are in charge of producing the final image, not your camera’s internal settings. As a consequence, you have much more scope to sharpen your RAW images, and make other adjustments using Photoshop.


When Sharpening Won’t Help

Sharpening will not, magically, put out-of-focus photos back into focus, and it won’t make blurred images sharp. It may help give the illusion of improved focus by adding contrast, but that’s all.

It’s essential to capture as good an image as possible ‘in camera’. That means taking care to focus correctly and avoid camera shake. Use a suitably high shutter speed when hand-holding your camera and a tripod/cable release with slow shutter speeds. After taking your photo, zoom in using your camera’s preview screen to check that your image is sharp.


Effects of Over-sharpening

Over-sharpening makes your photos look ugly. Unsightly halos appear along edges and dark edges become hard and jagged, pixels become blocked together, losing detail, and other pixels may change colour completely. Over-sharpening also makes any digital noise more prominent.

(Digital noise are random coloured pixels, sometimes seen in shadow and sky areas – more prevalent when shooting at high ISOs.)


How Unsharp Mask works

Unsharp Mask works by enhancing the appearance of detail in an image. It does this by adding tiny increases in contrast at object boundaries. These are known as sharpening halos. This added contrast results in sharp transitions and detail with clearly defined borders, making the image look sharper overall.


Why is it called Unsharp Mask?

The term Unsharp Mask is a throw back to the days of print processing, when edges of images where masked during processing, to make them look more defined, resulting in photographs which looked sharper.


Where to find Unsharp Mask in Photoshop

In Photoshop or Photoshop Elements, (depending on which version you are using), you’ll find Unsharp Mask under the Filter, Sharpen or Enhance drop down boxes, at the top of your Photoshop screen.

Important: Do sharpening Last

It is important to do any sharpening as a last step in editing/enhancing your images. This is because any subsequent adjustments can undo or damage your sharpening.

How to use Unsharp Mask

You will need to have a photo displayed in Photoshop before using the command (sorry if this sounds obvious). Clicking on Unsharp Mask brings up a smaller dialogue box and a mini preview area. The preview area displays a 100% view of your image. You can change the previewed are by clicking on different parts of your main image. I try to find an area on the main image with edges, which I can use to gauge the effects of sharpening.

The dialogue box has three sliders for Amount, Radius and Threshold. You can adjust these by using the sliders or entering a value directly into the boxes above them. (This is discussed below.)

You can test the effect of the changes you make by placing your cursor over the mini preview pane and left clicking with your mouse. This shows a zoomed in portion of the image at 100%, which displays before and after views of the sharpening effect.

If you want to view another portion of your photograph in the mini preview pane, move your cursor back over your main image and left click with your mouse.

About the Unsharp Mask controls

Amount

The Amount setting allows you to adjust the intensity of the sharpening i.e. higher values result in higher contrast along edges. (Settings range from 1 to 500%.)

A good starting point when sharpening RAW images is 100%.

Radius

Radius controls the width (from 0.1 to 250 pixels) of the sharpening halos. Low radius settings produce narrow sharpening halos, higher settings produce wider ones.

The value you use depends on the type of image that you are editing and its resolution. Images with lots of narrow edges and fine detail require a slightly lower radius setting than images with wide edges and less detail.

Additionally, low resolution images require smaller radius values than high resolution images.

A setting of 1 is a good place to start.

Threshold

Threshold specifies how much difference in brightness must be present in adjacent pixels before any sharpening is applied. (Settings range from 0 to 255) Low values apply the sharpening to edges with very little contrast. Higher values sharpen only when pixel contrast is higher.

The Threshold setting lets you protect skin tones and slightly noisy skies from being sharpened. Beware: Increasing the value too high can cause unnatural transitions between sharpened and unsharpened areas.

A good starting value is 1.


Let your Eyes Guide You

Look at the preview panel. If you start seeing unsightly halos, colour shifts or digital noise appearing in your image, reduce the sharpening amounts. Bear in mind that images which look slightly over-sharpened often print well, so it pays to experiment.

Here are some Unsharp Mask ‘recipes’, which you can use as a starting point for sharpening different types of images.


Some suggested Unsharp Mask Settings*

For people:

Amount 150%, Radius 1, Threshold 10

For cityscapes, urban photography, or travel:

Amount 65%, Radius 3, Threshold 2

For general everyday use:

Amount 85%, Radius 1, Threshold 4


*Courtesy of Scott Kelby’s book: The Digital Photography Book Vol. 1. How to Make your Photos Look like the Pros’

Article © Mark Elliott  www.better-photos.co.uk

Please feel free share this article using the buttons below:

Posted in Photoshop, radius, sharpening, sharpness, techniques, Unsharp Mask Tagged , , , , , , |

Is your Camera’s Firmware Up-to-Date?

How to Update your Camera’s Firmware

Hi Everyone,

Your camera runs on software, known as ‘Firmware’, and just like other types of software, it gets updated – fixing ‘bugs’ and adding new features. There may well be new versions of your camera’s firmware, which will improve its performance.

How to Check your Camera Firmware Version

Your camera’s firmware version is displayed in your camera menu – It will simply say ‘Firmware version 2.03‘, or something similar. Check on-line for the most recent firmware for your particular camera model. (Note: Every camera model firmware differs.) The two links below take you directly to Canon and Nikon websites where you can download their firmware updates. For other brands/models of camera, search Google with the phrase ‘firmware updates and then your camera model’. This should take you to manufacturer’s website, through which you can get their firmware updates.

When you visit these websites, you’ll be able to see if there are more recent versions of firmware available (shown as a higher version number). There will also be information on why the firmware was updated and full instructions how to update it in your camera.

How to Download Firmware and Get it into Your Camera

It is important to carefully read and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions when downloading firmware and installing it into your camera. (For example, you may need to remove lenses when installing new firmware).

Firmware is normally downloaded directly onto your computer (not directly into your camera). You then transfer the firmware file to a formatted compact flash or SD card (Which has been slotted into your computer’s camera memory card slot or card reader.) The card containing the downloaded firmware is then removed and then inserted into your camera, which is then turned on. You then select Firmware version from the camera setup menu and follow instructions displayed to upgrade the camera’s firmware.

 

Please note: This is just a simple outline of a typical firmware update process. Always follow your manufacturer’s specific instructions, so that you don’t damage your camera.

Theprocessis fairly straight forward and it is something that you won’t do very often, but it ensures that your camera’s software is up-to-date and performing as it should.

Links to Canon and Nikon Firmware Updates

Canon Firmware Updates

Nikon Firmware Updates


I hope you found this post useful. Please feel free to share this post using the buttons above.


Posted in software Tagged , , , , |

How to Photograph Snow Scenes

How to Take Great Photos of Snow Scenes

Snow at Plumbland Church

Snow at Plumbland Church

How to Take Photographs of Snow Scenes

How to take great photos of snow scenes with your digital SLR camera.

Problems and Solutions

Snow scenes are very picturesque. They make excellent additions to your landscape portfolio but they can be tricky to photograph. Here are some tips to help you take better snow scene photos and make your time in the chilly outdoors more enjoyable.

Exposure

Problem: When your camera is faced with a bright scene, such as snow, it tends to underexpose the image. Snow looks grey, rather than white.

Solution: When shooting in Aperture Priority mode, use your EV (Exposure compensation) button to brighten your exposure. Start with an EV of +1 stop and assess your images. Increase your EV compensation until the snow looks white but still retains texture and detail. Have your Highlight Warning set to warn you of blown out highlights, which are shown as flashing ‘blinkies’ on your camera LCD when you review your photos (when you have highlight alert warning enabled). Reduce your EV compensation until the ‘blinkies’ disappear.

Colour Cast

Problem: Snow picks up colour cast from the surrounding light. Photos of snow taken in daylight often have a blue tinge. Your auto white balance is unlikely to correct this.

Solution: Use your Custom White Balance setting to remove this colour cast. It is easier than you think. Refer to your camera manual for instructions for your camera model. Using my camera, I simply point to a patch of snow that is the same brightness as the overall scene. I fill my frame with the snow patch and then use this as the basis for my custom white balance. This WB is then stored in my camera. I then change my WB setting to ‘custom’ and take my photos.

Other issues:

Battery Drain

Your camera battery drains more quickly in cold conditions. Make sure that you fully charge your battery before going outdoors and, if you are planning to stay outdoors for several hours, take a spare battery.

Condensation

Condensation on your lens can occur when you take your camera from a warm environment, such as your home or car, into a cold environment like the outdoors on a frosty morning. Allow your camera and lens to ‘acclimatise’ to the lower temperature. Take off your lens cap to let the condensation to clear naturally. Five or ten minutes is usually enough to do this.

Keeping Yourself Warm

Fingerless gloves, thick socks and a hat are essential pieces of kit when photographing in the outdoors in winter. A flask of hot tea or coffee and snacks will help keep you warm and keep up your energy levels; and when it comes to your main items of clothing, use the ‘onion principle’ – wear lots of layers.

I hope these tips help you to take better photographs of snow scenes and enjoy your time outdoors in winter.

I wonder if it will be white Christmas?


Posted in exposure, landscape photography, snow, Uncategorized Tagged , , , , |

What is Bracketing?

Digital Photography Terms: What is Bracketing?

Hi Everyone,

In this post, I will tell you about bracketing.

What is Bracketing?

The term ‘bracketing’ is typically used when you take a series of shots at different exposures (or EVs – ‘Exposure Vales’). One way to do this is to set your aperture in Aperture Priority mode, and change your exposure using EV compensation. You repeat this process, making changes to your EV compensation resulting in a series of images taken at different exposures. You change your EV setting via the EV button (see below) or through the settings in your camera menu.

How Does the Camera Change the Exposure?

In the above example, your camera maintains a constant aperture and any changes you make to the EV settings automatically change your camera’s shutter speed to let in more or less light, thereby brightening or darkening the image.


Exposure Compensation Symbol

For example you might take your first photo at EV 0, followed by EV minus 1, and then EV plus 1, and your series of photographs would look like this:


EV 0

EV 0 is the camera’s default setting based on the prevailing light levels.

EV -1

EV -1 is set by you. This means that you have reduced the amount of light entering the camera by one ‘stop’, which decreases the overall brightness of the image.

EV +1

EV +1 is set by you. This means that you have increased the amount of light entering the camera by one ‘stop’, which increases the overall brightness of the image.


Why Bother with Bracketing?

Bracketing is useful when dealing with tricky lighting conditions and you want to give yourself leeway to review the photographs on your computer at home and then choose the exposure that you feel is most appropriate, rather than doing this on location. In short, bracketing gives you exposure options.

If you shoot in RAW, you do have the ability to change exposure levels of images in your RAW converter software. As a result, some photographers, when shooting in RAW, don’t bother bracketing. Other photographers don’t like making exposure changes during photo editing, preferring to get their images at the correct exposures at the point of capture.

If you shoot Jpegs, changing exposure levels during photo editing is not advisable and so bracketing continues to be a very useful technique.

Other Reasons to use Bracketing

Bracketing is also used to capture images, which can later be converted into HDR photographs using HDR software (to be explained a future post).

It all seems a bit finicky. Isn’t there an easier way to bracket your photos?

Fortunately, digital SLRs and high specification digital compact cameras have a quick bracketing button – known as AEB – Auto Exposure Bracketing. This tells your camera to take three shots at different exposures.

You access this through your camera menu. The AEB scale shows the exposure range from minus two stops to plus two stops, in one third of a stop intervals.

To use this, you must first set your required exposure intervals for example EV 0, EV-1, EV +1. It’s easily done by rotating your camera dial. You’ll see the little markers under the scale move.


AEB used to set exposures of EV0, EV-1, EV+1

AEB used to set exposures of EV0, EV-1, EV+1

Different exposure ranges can be chosen by setting different exposure intervals on the AEB scale.

  • For a very narrow range of exposures, use the 1/3rd of a stop intervals, e.g. EV0, EV-1/3rd, EV+1/3rd.
  • For a wide range exposures, use one stop intervals, or more. E.g. A two stop interval setting will produce images at EV0, EV-2, EV+2.

Using Autoexposure Bracketing – AEB

Once you’ve set your exposure range using AEB, pressing your camera’s shutter once will normally trigger your camera to automatically take three shots at the required range of exposures. (Some models of camera, and if you have mirror lock up engaged, will require you to press the shutter three times to take the three shots.)

I hope you found this post useful. Please feel free to share it using the button below.

Posted in EV, exposure, techniques Tagged , , , |

Autumn Photos in the Lake District

Where to Get Great Autumn Photos in the Lake District.

Hi Everyone,

Autumn in the Lake District

Autumn in the Lake District

The Lake District is a magical place to be in Autumn. The colours are magnificent – a photographer’s dream. There’s till time to get some attractive shots but you need to be quick because the recent high winds have blasted many colourful leaves from the trees.

This shot was taken yesterday in Lanthwaite Wood, which is located near Crummock water in the Lake District.

It’s a popular wood and so it’s best to get there early. It’s also a good place to see Roe Deer.

Location Info:

Lanthwaite Wood is located at the northern end of Crummock Water. From Cockermouth follow the B5289 through Lorton. When you reach a fork in the road, take the right-hand fork. The entrance to the wood is on the left, just before you go over the River Cocker. There is a pay and display National Trust car park at the entrance. Grid Ref: NY 149 214.


Posted in autumn. Lake District, Lake District, landscape photography Tagged , , |

How to Photograph Fireworks

Tips for Photographing Fireworks

Photographing Fireworks

Photographing Fireworks

With ‘Bonfire Night’ approaching, I thought it would be useful to give you some tips for photographing fireworks.

Here are some tips for taking firework photos with a digital SLR camera. This method is not the only way to photograph fireworks but it’s effective and much easier than it first sounds.

The Set Up

1) Use a tripod and a cable release to prevent camera shake.

2) Set your ISO to the lowest setting to reduce digital noise.

3) Set your focus to manual and then turn focus to infinity (look for the figure of eight symbol laying on its side).

4) Set your aperture to F11.

5) Turn off your flash.

6) Set your camera to the ‘Bulb’ setting. (This varies between cameras – so please refer to your manual. When ‘Bulb’ is set, the shutter stays open whilst you hold down the shutter completely, and closes when you let go of the shutter button).

7) Consider including buildings or other structures for a stronger composition.

Where to get the Best Photos

It’s easier to obtain impressive firework photos at large events. Check the internet and local press to find large, organised firework displays.

Get there early to scout the location and find the best viewpoints.

Photographing the Action

Using the above guidelines and the ‘Bulb’ setting, press your shutter at the start of the firework explosions and let go of the shutter when they subside. Try 5 and 10 second exposures as a start point. You can capture multiple explosions by keeping your shutter open and holding a piece of black card in front of your lens when the action subsides (blocking out the light), and then removing it from the lens to capture the next explosions.

Things to Bear in Mind

(a) Leaving the shutter open for long periods of time can result in parts of your photograph becoming overexposed. This is not likely to be a problem if you are pointing your camera at the night sky. However, if buildings, lights or other structures are featured in the frame, then leaving open the shutter for long periods may result in these parts of your image becoming ‘blown out’ (losing all detail). If this happens, reduce the amount of time that you hold open the shutter.

(b) Images taken with long exposure times (very slow shutter speeds) often contain digital noise. If applicable, your camera’s noise reduction processor might kick-in after you take each shot, causing there to be a slight delay before you are able to press the shutter again. You might also need to use noise reduction software to further clean up your images when you edit them on your computer.

(c) At such slow shutter speeds anyone positioned within the frame will show motion blur if they move whilst the shutter is open.

(d) It’s going to be dark, so take a small torch to help set your camera and pack away your gear.


Have a great Bonfire Night!


Posted in fireworks, night photography, slow shutter speed, techniques Tagged , , , |

Happy Halloween – Scary Face Photo

Scary Halloween Face Photo


Scary Halloween Photo

Scary Halloween Face Photo

Scary Face

This is a photograph from a photo shoot I did with World Gurning Champion and Guinness World Record Breaker, Tommy Mattinson.

‘Gurning’ is face pulling, and the World Gurning Championships are held each year in Egremont in Cumbria. Tommy has been crowned World Champion more times than anyone else. The photo shoot was a scream.

Have a Happy Halloween from Better Photos.

Posted in fun Tagged , , , , , , |